5 Days in Jordan
Jordan, a place that you can inhale scents of spice and woody incense as you browse treasure-lined souks; idle between the nooks and crannies of an ancient red city; drink hot sweet tea under the stars in a Bedouin campsite, and scuba-dive to the colourful patchwork quilt of coral off the coast of Aqaba.
After spending only five days in Jordan, I believe that whether you want to be immersed in culture, need a relaxing break, or are seeking a thrilling adventure, this place is for you, whoever you are.
Having lived in Qatar for almost a year, we wanted to explore more of what was on our doorstep. Comparing potential travel destinations such as Egypt, Oman, and Lebanon, we ended up choosing Jordan. It has a reputation for being a foreigner-friendly country with plenty of attractions to explore, making it an ideal choice for a short break.
Travelling is often a learning curve, and mistakes or ‘wish we’d thought of that’ moments are part and parcel, sometimes even with careful planning. One element of our planning we were particularly proud of, however, was our itinerary. We wanted adventure and a change of scene but were also in need of a break. With this in mind, we arranged for adventurous activities at the beginning of the trip, leaving time to unwind and relax in the final days.
Ideally, spending two to three days at each location included in my guide would provide the optimal amount of time to fully appreciate and absorb everything, but we had six days of holiday, so this itinerary allowed us to see a bit of everything in under a week.
Outlined in my ode to the wonderful Jordan are various anecdotes of five days packed with adventure, discovery, and wonder. Regardless of age, budget, or companionship, I believe that these are the must-visit places and experiences that you cannot afford to miss when planning your visit. Read on for stories, tips, and things to note along the way.
Our itinerary:
Day 1 - Our own adventure began with a one night stay in the lively capital of Amman.
Day 2 - The following day, we travelled back to Queen Alia International Airport to pick up our hire car. From there, we headed to Petra.
Day 3 - On the third day, we made our way to Wadi Rum or a one-day one-night jeep tour and camping experience.
Day 4 & 5 - Our trip ended with two nights at the Mövenpick Dead Sea Resort.
Day 1 - The Capital
Amman is the capital and largest city of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan, located in the northwest part of the country. Perched 777m above sea level, much of this vibrant metropolis is constructed on the slopes of seven hills, or jabals, all independently defining a neighbourhood.
With a rich history dating back to ancient times, Amman has evidence of settlements dating back to the Neolithic period and has been ruled by various civilisations, including the Assyrians, Persians, Greeks, Romans, and Ottomans - each of which has left its unique mark on the DNA of the city.
Modern Amman is a bustling, colourful city that sees old and new converge. Crumbling Roman ruins meet 5-star hotels, contemporary restaurants, and shopping centres, making it an ideal tourist destination that attracts visitors from all over the world.
Graffiti adorned streets lining the uphill descent to the Citadel.
Taken from one of Amman’s many iconic viewpoints.
The minaret of the Islamic Scientific College Mosque.
One of many juice stops in downtown Amman.
Panoramic views of Amman from the Citadel, featuring the Amphitheatre.
Roman Theatre
A Greek inscription on one of the pillars of this ancient ruin dates as far back as 139-161 CE and indicates that it was built in honour of Emperor Antonius Pius. Back then, Amman was known as Philadelphia.
The landmark which is one of Amman’s photo spots is now a venue used for cultural activities, such as the Amman International Book Fair, and musical concerts such as the Al-Balad.
The theatre grounds and surrounding area were extremely congested with people and traffic when we visited, but the atmosphere is lively and vibrant, perhaps slightly chaotic, but it is nonetheless enjoyable to be caught up in the local scene. The pavements are packed with families and tourists, kids play on the busy streets, and locals can be seen enjoying corn and chestnuts from street vendors’ trucks, which smoke away on open charcoal grills.
For some people-free photos of the theatre itself, I would suggest going at 8 a.m. when the gates open.
The blue domed Umayyad Palace.
From inside the Umayyad Palace.
Amman Citadel
Amman Citadel is a short uphill walk from downtown Amman. Situated high on one of the city’s hilltops, the heritage site provides panoramic views of Amman and the downtown area, so it's worth spending a couple of hours there. The 3 JOD to enter (£3.36) is a small price to pay for the opportunity to explore these fascinating relics, including the reconstructed eastern gate of the Umayyad Mosque, the incomplete Roman Temple of Hercules, and the Umayyad Palace. Plus, you can behold one of the best views of the Roman Theatre and Odeon. Go in the late afternoon before sunset to see children flying colourful kites high above the city as the evening call to prayer echoes from every direction.
The Temple of Hercules.
The Food Scene
Amman boasts a vibrant food scene that reflects the country’s cultural diversity, and everything from traditional dishes to modern fusion cuisine is widely available. The food and drink places we tried in Amman were impressive, in particular, Sheen, a contemporary Levantine eatery, and Oliva, which offers affordable Italian dishes in a casual setting.
The shaded Mediterranean terrace of Sheen.
Of course, we had to experience some local street food snacks on our travels and were persuaded to try the sweet and nutty Kunafa Mabrooma (Kunafa-style pastry filled with cheese and topped with sugar syrup) glistening in the window of Habibah Sweets, and hot falafels for less than 2 JOD (£2.19), scooped and fried in front of us at AlQuds Falafel kiosk.
A local favourite - Habibah Sweets.
Just some of the delectable sweet treats available.
Rainbow Street
In the evening, we took a stroll through Rainbow Street. Originally named Abu Bakr al Siddiq, Rainbow Street is iconic for its eye-catching decorations, and its hanging multicoloured lanterns and parasols in particular have become synonymous with this vibrant district. Not only is it the city’s main nightlife neighbourhood, but also home to many shops, restaurants, and cafes, and can be visited during the day or at night.
Some things we didn’t get around to doing whilst in Amman, but that came recommended, were the King Abdullah Mosque, Duke’s Diwan historic townhouse, the Jordan Museum, and The Abdali Boulevard.
Day 2 - The Rose City
One of seven wonders of the ancient world, Petra, is an ancient city located in the southern part of Jordan. Also known as the Rose City, Petra was once a major centre of trade, culture, and religion, and was also the capital of the Nabataean Kingdom. Today, Petra is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a popular tourist destination, attracting visitors from all over the world.
Petra from above.
The Treasury
Petra is arguably most famous for The Treasury, one of its most elaborate temples. The Bedouins inhabiting the archaeological site in the early 19th century believed it possessed hidden treasures, christening it Al-Khazneh, or ‘The Treasury’.
The grandeur of The Treasury really comes into view as you enter through the narrow Siq, a 1.2-kilometre-long gorge, which eventually opens up to reveal the Treasury, one of the most recognisable viewpoints in the site. The intricate façade which was carved into the rose-coloured rock face by Nabataean people who lived 2,000 years ago, seems almost too perfectly preserved to belong to ancient times.
The narrow Siq leading to The Treasury.
The Treasury coming into view.
Nothing quite prepares you for seeing this great sandstone carving in the flesh, glowing amber in the heat of the desert, with its columns standing tall and slender above its onlookers.
As you continue past The Treasury and through the rocky channels of this unique ancient city, you will come across a number of other iconic landmarks, including the Monastery, the Amphitheatre, and the Royal Tombs, all of which are equally mesmerising.
The Bedouin People
Dwelling amid the ruins of tombs and temples are the last remaining Bedouins of the Bdoul indigenous people, who own most of the stands and small shops selling traditional handicrafts and souvenirs. In 1985, UNESCO and the Jordanian government began attempting to relocate the Bdoul from Petra to surrounding villages, and the number of existing Bedouin families dwindled from 150 families to an estimated 10 who still inhabit the World Heritage Site.
Some things to bear in mind…
● The site costs 50 JOD (£57) to enter, which may seem costly, but it is truly worth every penny.
● We only had one day, but it is recommended that you take five days to explore the entirety of Petra. The archaeological site spans 2,640 acres, but it only takes 30 minutes to reach the Treasury from the Visitor Centre on foot.
● You may be offered a horseback or donkey ride by some of the men working on the site, but it is not included in your ticket as they might insist.
● You may also be approached (sometimes by young children) and asked if you would like a photograph at the Petra viewpoint, for a fee. I would recommend trying to reach the viewpoint yourself, if possible, without their help. When you enter the site of the Treasury, the viewpoint can be accessed by scaling the cliffs on the right-hand side.
● If you plan to stay the night near Petra, Wadi Musa is the closest town offering restaurants, convenience stores and hotels. The prices are rather inflated here, and what you pay for won’t necessarily guarantee a high standard, so be careful where you choose, and read reviews beforehand. We stayed in the Tetra Tree Hotel, which was reasonable, but I would only recommend it if you have a car, or don’t mind a 30-minute walk up and down a steep hill. Beit Alshabaan Inn and Nomads Hotel Petra are other accommodations with similar prices and ratings.
● As is the case at many tourist attractions, food prices are also often inflated, and we discovered when researching that many restaurants had suspiciously high ratings, many of them with 5/5 on TripAdvisor, so be discerning in your choices here. We ate in Al Wadi and Mr. Falafel, which were both busy and served fresh local dishes.
Day 3 - Life On Mars
Our third leg of the trip took us to the spellbinding Wadi Rum Desert, located in the South of Jordan. AKA - the Valley of the Moon, this great, blazing red expanse of land, the largest wadi or ‘river valley’ in the land, has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2011.
With vast open spaces, towering red sandstone cliffs, and trains of ambling camels, this otherworldly landscape embodies the quintessential image of the desert, drawing you into the realm of Lawrence of Arabia and The Martian.
We booked a one-day and one-night desert tour with Wadi Rum Stillness. Saher, our friendly guide, was not only an expert but also a lifelong resident of the desert, enabling us to immerse ourselves in an authentic adventure within his remarkable homeland.
As we set off on our tour, clinging onto the rails of Saher’s Landcruiser, we weren’t quite prepared for what we were about to experience. Only the human eye can fully appreciate the sheer scale of the landscape, with its red sand burning against the blue sky. This only adds to its magic.
The jeep tour included stop-offs at some of the Wadi Rum’s most iconic landmarks including Mushroom Rock, the Red Sand Dune, and Lawrence Spring. At each of these stop-offs, Saher allowed us ample time to explore each location at our own pace and hydrate with sweet black tea under the brightly coloured canopies of the Bedouin tents.
In the late afternoon, we stopped to rest and eat lunch, a simple and delicious traditional vegetable stew Saher cooked effortlessly over a small fire made from dried foliage and branches he had been collecting on our travels. After eating, we shut our eyes in the shade of a towering cliff, basking in the stillness and quiet of this red wilderness we found ourselves in.
On our tour, we also made a brief visit to Saher’s family home, catching a small glimpse of the Bedouin way of living. They mostly inhabit ‘black tents’ - dwellings made from goat hair that protect them from extreme temperatures, and which can be dismantled easily when they choose to move location. Their tent was pitched alone in a wide expanse of desert, shared only by some goats and a dog sleeping in the shade. The Bedouins who inhabit these desert lands have an acute understanding of the desert, as they rely on its resources for survival.
The Zalabieh Bedouin people arrived in Wadi Rum around 1980, and account for around eighty percent of people dwelling in Wadi Rum. Historically, Bedouin families like Saher’s, would move in search of water and pasture for their livestock. Many families like them still maintain this existence, herding goats, sheep, and camels, and growing herbs and plants to sustain themselves and their livestock.
After the sun had dipped below the horizon, painting the sky in soft pastel hues, we reached the campsite. The first stars emerged in the sky as we settled into our accommodation, a simple cabin furnished with two single beds. After settling in, we then made our way to the main tent where we were greeted by Habis, the owner of Wadi Rum Stillness, who welcomed us into the tent to enjoy Bedouin tea, infused with cardamom and sweetened with plenty of sugar.
As we sipped from the small glass mugs, we mused about our experiences in Jordan so far, and listened to Habis’ entertaining stories about his life in the desert, his travels, and the people he had hosted. We conversed by the warmth of the fire, against a soundtrack of melismatic vocal runs and the haunting twangs of the Oud, performed by another guide, also the resident musician.
Then, exhausted from the exhilaration of the day, with faces warm from the fire, we made our way back across the campsite to our lodgings. As our eyes adjusted to the total darkness, a celestial vision began to appear above us, revealing the glittering channel of the Milky Way centre stage in the navy sky.
A couple of things to bear in mind…
• There are many different desert excursions available to book. As mentioned previously, we booked Wadi Rum Stillness which was highly recommended in many blogs we read in the planning stages. We opted for the 1-day and 1-night private tour, which included a full-day jeep tour starting from 10 a.m., three meals, and a night stay in a Bedouin campsite.
• Other available modifications of the Wadi Rum experience include group tours, hiking/trekking tours, and multiple-day tours, with accommodations ranging from luxury glamping pods to sleeping on the sand under the stars.
• Take plenty of layers to wear to bed. We visited in April, and with daytime temperatures averaging about 27°C, we didn’t anticipate that the temperature could drop as low as 10°C during the night. Even as a Northern European, trust me when I say that it felt extremely cold during the night, even under two weighted blankets.
• Other things we wish we’d brought were sandals or flip flops (to wear in your cabin to avoid trailing in sand) and a travel LED light or torch, as it gets very dark when the lights are turned off in the campsite, so necessary for finding your way to the toilet in the middle of the night. We used our phone torches, but a stronger light source would have been handy.
• The Bedouin people are very hospitable, and will gladly engage in conversation, but only after offering you a cup of tea. As is the case wherever you are, ask before taking pictures of them. They will most likely oblige.
Day 4 & 5 - The Dead Sea
Thought to be the site of one of the world’s first ‘health spas’ built by Herod the Great, The Dead Sea has long been a source of intrigue to many. Located on the borders of Jordan and Palestine, the Dead Sea sits 429 metres below sea level, making it the lowest point on Earth.
The waters, which are known for being especially mineral-dense, provide relief for numerous ailments, including but not limited to psoriasis, eczema, acne, and even back pain. The area is also known for having a low pollen count, reduced ultraviolet rays (you are still recommended to wear SPF), and higher atmospheric pressure. A great place to visit if you’re a little under the weather.
The Dead Sea’s unique selling point, however, is the fact that the human body becomes completely weightless when submerged, due to the high concentration of dissolved salt. As it is nine-times saltier than the ocean, it does not contain any aquatic life.
How to Visit
There are two main ways to experience the Dead Sea in Jordan. We opted for booking two nights at a resort, and whilst there are advantages to visiting a public beach, for us, the benefits of booking a resort outweighed any drawbacks.
Benefits of staying at a resort:
Most of the resorts have secluded beaches along the coastline, making for convenient access. These private areas are designed for guests to enjoy the experience comfortably and will often have showers and sun loungers available.
Many resorts near the Dead Sea have world-class spa facilities that offer a range of specialised treatments utilising the natural resources of the region, including mud wraps, mineral-rich salt scrubs, and therapeutic massages.
Staying a night or two allows for multiple trips down to the shore to float in the salty waters and reap the health benefits.
Although we ourselves are not typically resort-goers, there is something about having everything in one place that alleviates the stress when travelling to a new place.
Bear in mind there are quite a few resorts in this area, among them a Kempinski, Hilton, and Marriott, so shop around to find what suits you and your budget best.
Drawbacks of staying at a resort:
If you are visiting Jordan on a shoestring, then staying in a resort isn’t the most budget-friendly option. On top of the nightly room rate, the price of food and drink at the resorts is inflated, due to the monopoly they have at this remote location.
The Dead Sea is a popular tourist destination, and resorts in the vicinity can attract large numbers of visitors, especially during peak seasons. This may result in crowded beaches and facilities, reducing the sense of privacy and tranquillity.
One thing we struggled with especially was the lack of good dining options. As we were there for two nights and just one full day, we decided to remain at the resort and explore the hotel’s onsite F&B. If we were to do it differently, we would have tried to seek out more local options elsewhere, as we didn’t feel that the food quality at the hotel was up to standard, and very overpriced.
A bit about Mövenpick Hotel Dead Sea:
As I’ve previously mentioned, resorts aren’t usually our first choice, but we felt like this was probably the most practical option for accessing this remote part of Jordan. We stayed at Mövenpick Hotel Dead Sea, situated between many other similar resorts along the shoreline of the region’s famed salt lake.
Mövenpick Dead Sea is a solid choice for a mid-range budget. With surreal views, the renowned Zara Spa, and great staff, the hotel exceeded our expectations in many areas.
The Zara Spa takes full advantage of the therapeutic properties of the Dead Sea, mainly its mineral-rich waters and renowned healing properties, which feature in most of the products and treatments. The hotel even offers long-stay rehabilitation programmes for those suffering from chronic skin conditions.
If you are staying at Mövenpick Dead Sea, visiting the facilities is a must. Spa access is available for 25 JOD (£27.42) per person, or free when booking a treatment over the value of 100 JOD (£109.68), and you can come and go all day, as you please.
I opted for a full-body mud-wrap which involved a short steam, being covered in the thick, nourishing clay from the Dead Sea, and then being wrapped in plastic and left to marinate! It is certainly an unconventional spa treatment, but definitely a rite of passage if you are staying in a Dead Sea Resort.
Playing in the red sands of Wadi Rum, wandering Amman’s bustling souqs, or floating effortlessly on the salty Dead Sea are just a few of the many wonderful experiences to be had in Jordan, a country rich in history, culture, and natural beauty.
I hope that this guide will be helpful if you consider a trip to Jordan in the future. It is a wonderful gateway into experiencing Middle Eastern culture and history, and with activities and experiences to suit everyone, Jordan does not have the capacity to disappoint.
Do not hesitate to get in touch if you have any questions - I would be more than happy to help. Please leave a comment or email me at juliacairaphotography@gmail.com.