Why You Should Visit Hiroshima
The city which was destroyed by the first atomic bomb at the climax of World War II, Hiroshima is steeped in sadness and beauty in equal measure.
Often the overlooked member of Japan's big four, Hiroshima carries the weight of its tragic past. But despite this, modern Hiroshima is a laid-back city—an ideal destination to relax, reflect, enjoy wonderful cuisine, and immerse oneself in the city’s history and natural beauty.
In our planning stages, Hiroshima made its way on and off of our itinerary many times, but it was not because we didn’t want to visit. As we were in the midst of mapping out a schedule that had every hour carefully accounted for, we were undecided about whether or not it would be worth a day or two of our limited time. One of our main concerns about visiting was its distance from our other destinations, which would result in a lengthy journey back to Tokyo for our return flight. As first time travellers to Japan, we also found there were limited online resources about things to do and see there.
However as our short time in the city came to an end, my sister and I agreed that it would have been a great shame had we not visited. In fact, out of all the cities we travelled to, each of which were magical in their own right, Hiroshima may have been my favourite.
So, why should you visit? If you are having trouble deciding for yourself, I've compiled some reasons why Hiroshima should firmly remain on your travel itinerary.
For a Slice of Important History
The Atomic Bomb Dome, the only building remaining after the blast
Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, The A-Bomb Dome, and Peace Memorial Park
The Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum offers an insight into the enduring impact of nuclear warfare. Providing a stark reminder of the destruction that humans are capable of, the museum not only intends to eternalise those who perished at the expense of a relentless war, but to educate us all on why an event like the dropping of the atomic bomb must never happen again.
School students gather at the Cenotaph for the Victims of the Atomic Bomb (formally known as the Memorial Monument for Hiroshima, City of Peace)
Containing many belongings left by the victims, photos, and drawings, the museum is supplemented by exhibits that describe Hiroshima before and after the bombings and others that present the current status of the nuclear age. The collections are sensitively and impactfully curated, carefully communicating personal stories from many of the bomb’s 140,000 victims. The subject matter may be graphic and upsetting, but the gravitas of real human suffering is essential to the institution’s role in advocating for peace.
Prior to the detonation of the bomb, the Peace Park's location served as the city's political and commercial epicentre. Unfortunately this meant it was selected as the prime target. Exactly four years after the bombing occurred, it was decided that the area would be redeveloped into a memorial to honour those affected.
Across the river is the Atomic Bomb Dome, once the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall, the only building that survived the atomic blast. The skeleton of the once thriving educational hub is located at the riverfront, eclipsed by the contemporary landscape of modern-day Hiroshima bustling around it.
I’m unsure if it was the leaves on the trees beginning to turn, or the slight Autumnal chill in the air as we walked through the park, but the weight of Hiroshima’s sad history felt almost tangible. Although heavy on the heart, the museum and surrounding areas teach an important lesson, and deserve to be a part of every Japan itinerary.
A moment of calm in Peace Memorial Park
Flowers left for the victims of the atomic bomb, 78 years on
To See Itsukushima Island
Itsukushima Shinto Shrine
Hiroshima is a gateway to the ethereal island of Itsukushima, commonly known as Miyajima.
The Shinto shrine on Itsukushima, which dates from the 12th century, has captured the intrigue of many visitors to Japan, and it isn’t difficult to see why.
Probably Japan’s most iconic torii gate
The shrine’s main complex
Grounded at the foot of a forest covered mountain is the shrine’s main complex. For 300¥ (less than £2) you can explore the series of interconnected buildings supported by pillars that rise from the sea, and admire the Shinden and Bukke architectural styles and bright vermillion detailing. Perhaps the most well known component to the shrine is the striking orange coloured torii gate which appears to almost float on the surface of the water as the tide rises.
You can also get up close to the Island’s five-story-pagoda, perched on a small hill overlooking the sea and the main complex, and see firsthand the ornate blend of traditional Zen Buddhist patterns and Japanese flourishes which adorn its facade. Itsukushima shrine is a UNESCO World Heritage site, so you can read more about the history on their website.
Pick up different flavours of soy sauce from Sansyou Syouyu-ya
The colourful and lively Omotesando shopping street guides you straight from the ferry terminal to the shrine, no Google Maps required. Here, you can sample wonderful grilled oysters and other local delicacies, and collect souvenirs which are specific to Itsukushima.
Roaming freely through the streets of Itsukushima, the island’s resident deer have become an integral part of the local landscape, and peacefully coexist alongside the island's cultural and natural treasures. In Shinto belief, these gentle creatures are sacred and are considered divine messengers, so bear that in mind when interacting with them. While they are accustomed to human presence, approach with caution, especially the antler-armed males during the mating season. Unlike the deer in Nara, you are advised not to feed them.
There are regular ferries to and from the island which are covered under the JR pass, and involve taking a 30 minute train from JR Hiroshima Station to JR Miyajimaguchi Station on the Sanyō Honsen Line. The ferry port is a short walk, and then it's only a 10 minutes boat trip from Miyajimaguchi Port to Miyajima Island by ferry. You can also reach the ferry port on the Hiroden Streetcar, which takes about 1 hour from Kamiyacho in the centre of Hiroshima City, to Hiroden Miyajimaguchi. Having JR passes - we opted for the former.
To Eat Incredible Food
Coffee and vanilla soft serve from Miyajima Coffee
A seafood lover’s paradise, Hiroshima stands out as a culinary highlight from our time in Japan.
Grilled oysters, seasoned with basil and lemon
Oysters
Itsukushima is also a haven for seafood enthusiasts, particularly those with a penchant for oysters. Local eateries offer these juicy locally caught shellfish, which cook on open grills at various kiosks dotted along the bustling Omotesando Street. A squeeze of lemon is all that is required to bring out the wonderful salty and buttery flavour, however many kiosks will offer different seasonings which provide an added dimension. The scent alone of these sizzling flavour-filled shells, omitting scents of oceanic brininess mixed with the smoky aroma of the grill, is enough to get your mouth watering.
Momiji Manju
Momiji Manju is a charming maple-leaf shaped confection made from buckwheat and rice. We first tried these at KIMURAYA-Honten on Itsukushima and became infatuated with the taste and texture. The outer layer is made of a soft, sponge-like cake with a sweet filling. Of course, we had to sample each of the multitude of flavours on offer: red bean paste, custard, and sometimes sweet potato. Such is the case with most Japanese food, there is a perfectionist behind every one of these treats, and in many Momiji Maju-specialising bakeries you can watch the production process first hand, as a creamy batter is poured into leaf shaped irons, baked, packaged and boxed with satisfying efficacy. Purchased in decorative boxes as a souvenir to take home or enjoyed as a snack on the go, the delicate, fun-sized Momiji Manju perfectly embodies traditional Japanese confectionery, visually appealing and incredibly delicious.
Okonomiyaki
Okonomiyaki is a savoury pancake which is considered a Japanese staple. The Hiroshima style dish consists of several layers, first a thin crepe topped with soba noodles, cabbage, and various different ingredients you can choose from.
After learning about the unique variation of the dish, we were eager to taste it ourselves, and upon arrival, promptly made our way to the renowned multi-story building exclusively devoted to this local culinary delight. Okonomi-mura (mura meaning village), is a four-floor building home to twenty-five Okonomiyaki eateries, each serving up the delicacy with their own spin. Okonomiyaki Village offers not only a chance to sample the popular dish, but also an immersive dining experience, where the sizzling pancake is prepared, cooked and served live in front of you. Sat around a large table-come-grill, shoulder to shoulder with excited strangers, devouring Okonomiyaki in Hiroshima was one of the most memorable dining experiences of the trip.
If you still need some more convincing to add Hiroshima to your route, or are currently planning a trip to Japan and have a few questions, please reach out to me at juliacairaphotography@gmail.com or leave a comment below. I’d love to chat.